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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2012, 15(1): 33-38pl  Movement of active ingredients through dermalBeata Łubkowska 1/, Beata Grobelna 2/, Zbigniew Maćkiewicz 1/ 1/ Pracownia Chemii Polipeptydów, Wydział Chemii, Uniwersytet Gdański 2/ Katedra Chemii Analitycznej, Wydział Chemii, Uniwersytet Gdański Summary In recent years the cosmetics industry has developed a particularly strong when it comes to finding new and better active substances. Despite this, there is still a problem of penetration into the dermis. These difficulties are largely caused by the construction of the skin, rather its main element of protection, the stratum corneum. It is the structure due to its structure and chemical composition is an almost impenetrable barrier. Penetration through the skin of a cosmetic product includes hiking molecule through layer of skin, which start from her bound in the first layers of horn cells, until they penetrate the system. It should concern only molecules used therapeutically, as in the case of cosmetic ingredients is usually not advisable to be permeated through all skin layers. The care for the skin transport rate should be reduced or eliminated, while the opposite for therapeutic purposes, the rate of transdermal absorption should be increased. There are several possibilities of penetration of substances through the stratum corneum barrier. The active substances can penetrate into the skin both through transepidermal and the skin appendages. Develop methods of penetration is particularly difficult, because depends on many factors including chemical nature of the substance, its structure or type of the ground. Scientists are still working on streamlining the processes of penetration of active substances, so that can be freely work to stimulate the dermis without additional incentives. Key words: dispersal routes, stratum corneum |