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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2019, 22(1): 60-66pl  Useful properties of protective and moisturizing lipsticksKatarzyna Michocka, Katarzyna Wybieralska, Zuzanna Florczyk Katedra Technologii i Analizy Instrumentalnej, Wydział Towaroznawstwa , Uniwersytet Ekonomiczny w Poznaniu Summary Introduction. The stage of creating a lipstick recipe poses many challenges. From appropriately selected ingredients and their weights will depend on the structure of the product, i.e. the desired no change during the whole period of use. For the most common defect occurs when selecting the wrong aspect ratio between the wax and oil. The unstable lipid phase is manifested by the formed drops on the outer surface of the lipstick. Aim. The aim of the study was to examine the properties of the prepared lipsticks and comparison to commercial products. Material and methods. The lipsticks were analyzed for the assessment of the degree of transepidermal water loss, the hydration of the skin, as well as measuring the sebum level of the skin. Basic functional parameters were also evaluated: sensory analysis, taking into account the most important properties that a protective lipstick should have. The tested products were subjected to stress tests and evaluated the color stability and effect of cosmetics. Results. Measurements of hydration and lubrication showed that the Candelilla wax-based lipstick showed similar parameters compared to commercial lipsticks. Good color stability was demonstrated by Candelilla wax-based lipsticks, which better maintained pigmentation compared to the Carnauba-based product. Stress tests showed destabilization of the consistency of commercial products, while the condition of the lipsticks did not change. The prepared lipsticks were characterized by a higher hardness and, consequently, a difficulty in the application. Conclusions. Made lipsticks meet the key requirements for the properties of lip care products. They give a proper hydration and a perceivable oiling layer, although it would be worth introducing changes in the recipe to give softness and eliminate problems related to the difficulty of applying the product. Key words: protective-moisturizing lipsticks, useful properties, skin care, color measurement, storage test |