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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2018, 21(3): 206-214pl  New ultraviolet-absorbing organic substances in sunscreen formulationArtur Budzowski, Regina Gil Zakład Chemii Kosmetycznej, Wydział Lekarski i Nauk o Zdrowiu, Krakowska Akademia im. A. Frycza Modrzewskiego Summary Cosmetics containing sunscreens play important role in prophylaxis from the harmful effect of UV radiation on human skin. The main components of the cosmetics are physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens, which should ensure the effective skin protection. Currently applied organic chemical absorbers, in the respect of the wavelength of the absorbed UV light are divided into following groups: UV-A absorbers, UV-B absorbers, and broad-spectrum absorbers. Previously, the main target of the sunscreen action was UV-B protection, but currently more attention is being paid for UV-A protection. The present article provides a review of the most frequently applied organic absorbers with reference to their stability and consumer safety. New organic absorbers, currently invented and published in patents has been presented. The innovations contain chemical modifications of the well-known and widely applied classical UV absorbers, as well as cosmetic applications of organic compounds with new, carefully selected, ultraviolet-absorbing chromophore systems. Other innovations describe the introduction of new polymers into cosmetics. The polymers may serve as independent UV-absorbing components or as agents boosting the SPF value of cosmetics containing classical organic absorbers. Moreover, various new mineral and organic cosmetic ingredients improving the protection level of the classical absorbers are being introduced. The most numerous group of the new additives to the sunscreens consist of natural substances which may absorb UV radiation. Many extracts from plants occurring in various regions in the world exhibit UV-protecting effect, caused by the presence of active components absorbing UV light. The important role play also antioxidants, which stabilize other components and serve as versatile and healthy additives to the sunscreens. Key words: sunscreens, UV filters, photostability, safety management |