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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2020, 23(4): 237-248pl  Plant extracts in cosmetic medicinal preparations and care products type "HIPRE"Marian M. Zgoda 1/, Agnieszka Kudyba 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Katarzyna Bujnicka 1/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/ 1/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Application studies were carried out covering the formulation and morphological structure of cosmetic creams used in acne lesions, cleansing, bio-moisturizing and brightening the epidermis. The analytical methods of the Polish Pharmacopoeia X and XI and Polish Standards (PN-ISO) were used to estimate the morphological and pharmacotherapeutic properties of the cosmetics. Aim. The aim of the research was to estimate the content of water and volatile components to determine the morphological structure and viscosity of the preparations. The calculated thermodynamic parameters of the components with the bioavailability=1.0 were the basis for the calculation of the diffusion coefficient (D). Material and methods. The subject of the research were hydrogel o/w (or w/o/w) emulsions that contain medicinal agents, essential oils and phytochemicals in hydrophilic plant extracts. The content of water and volatile components was determined by the gravimetric method and the viscosity using the Casson method. Extensometric method was used to determine the extensibility of the tested cosmetics. Results. The content of water and volatile components allowed to determine the morphological structure of hydrogel emulsions, the viscosity of which is stabilized by high-molecular copolymers, the so-called "alleged suffractors." The marked extensibility of the preparations indicates a significant proportion of high-molecular copolymers which, with high water content, determine the viscosity and morphological durability of cosmetics. Conclusions. The analyzed preparations are characterized by composition appropriate to the profile and morphological parameters, which enable the effective operation of the ingredients. Key words: cosmetic creams, viscosity, extensibility, diffusion coefficient, water content |