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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2020, 23(4): 214-226pl,en  Lipophilicity in cosmetologyJacek Arct 1/, Ewa Starzyk 2/ 1/ Fundacja dr Seidla 2/ Polski Związek Przemysłu Kosmetycznego Summary The lipophilicity of chemical compounds has a significant influence on their behaviour in biological systems. Understanding what elements determine lipophilicity enables the design and preparation of compounds with the desired lipophilicity. The penetration rate through the stratum corneum´s lipophilic structures, apart from activity, determines the compound´s applicability in cosmetic preparations. It is assumed that for most chemicals are transported through the stratum corneum by the intercellular route. Lipophilicity determines the affinity to specific biological structures. Partition within physical systems and toxicity is highly dependent on the lipophilicity of the compound. The term lipophilicity is typically used interchangeably with the term hydrophobicity. However, these concepts are not identical and describe various phenomena. Lipophilicity is the result of intermolecular and intramolecular interactions. Mainly intermolecular, formed by the molecule with its environment. Thus, lipophilicity can be described in terms of measurable parameters of the molecule that determine these interactions´ formation. The polarizability of a compound and the tendency to form hydrogen bonds determine the appearance of polar interactions. On the contrary, non-polar interactions increase lipophilicity. The intramolecular businesses also play an essential role in lipophilicity. All functional groups present in a molecule interact with each other. Due to the large variety of groups, it is often complicated to distinguish all interactions. The authors discuss in detail various factors that determine lipophilicity, including electric and polar groups interactions. Key words: lipophilicity, hydrophobicity, hydrophilicity, bioavailability, partition coefficient, polarizability |