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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2020, 23(3): 166-177pl  Extracts of algae and medicinal plants (pharmacopoeial plants) in skin care and revitalizing cosmetic preparationsMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Janina Czarna-Badzioch 1/, Sławomira Nowak 2/, Justyna Kołodziejska 3/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/ 1/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi 2/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Katedry Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedry Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Algae extracts and their complexes with plant extracts, medicinal agents and essential oils constituted the preparations for skin hydration and revitalization. Vehiculum for the morphological structure of cosmetics were copolymers cross-linked with sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine. The composition of hydrogel emulsions also includes vegetable oils containing vitamins and omega acids. Aim. The aim of the research was to evaluate the rate of loss of volatile components and to determine the content of water in cosmetics. The viscosity of the preparations was determined by the Casson method, which allowed, after calculating the topological radius of the molecule "r" of selected components, to estimate the diffusion coefficient "D". Material and methods. The subject of the research were cosmetic preparations of the hydrogel emulsion (o/w) type. The water content in cosmetics as well as the viscosity and the kinetics of the loss of volatile components were determined by the gravimetric method. For selected organic compounds the diffusion coefficient was calculated. Results. The water content in the tested preparations ranges from 71.96-91.68%. They are characterized by a high rate of water loss at the tested temperature, which means a radical increase in the viscosity. The obtained results make it possible to develop the optimal exposure time for preparations during the skin revitalization treatment. Conclusion. The application parameters of the tested cosmetics, make it possible to determine the optimal exposure time of the hydrogel emulsion at the interface. The recipe composition of the tested cosmetics through the synergy effect, promote skin revitalization and hydration. Key words: revitalization, skin hydration, algae extracts, phytochemicals, carboxylic acids, essential oils |