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Pol J Cosmetol 2019, 22(1): 46-53pl  Hyaluronic acid in revitalizing cosmetic productsMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Izabela Zbylut 1/, Katarzyna Bujnicka 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/ 1/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Cosmetic creams with a hydrogel emulsion structure (HIPRE-type) which due to the presence of hyaluronic acid in the prescription not only revitalize the skin but also nourish the mature complexion, providing hydrolipid balance of the skin. They also demonstrate remedial action in relation to "stratum corneum". Aim. The aim of study was to define the effectiveness of skin hydration and revitalization by determining the rate of water and volatile components loss and assessment of the mass exchange rate at the phase boundary of biologically active structures in vitro. Material and methods. Market products such as: moisturizing cream with hyaluronic acid (30+), jasmine antiwrinkle day cream (50+), pearl lifting, semi-rich anti-wrinkle day and night cream and HYDRO night cream were the material for testing. The activity of the hydroge ion was examined by potentiometric method the morphological structure of the preparations and after spreading them on the skin surface. The kinetics of water and volatile components loss was estimated and the numerical value of yield stress was determined by rheological measurements. The latterallows to estimate the diffusion coefficient for organic structures with the bioavailability coefficient equal to one. Results. The content of water and volatile components was determined in the morphological structure of hydrogel preparations.It was found that despite the introduction of hyaluronic acid and hydrogel water-binding structures into the prescription composition, the tested products lost 50-74% of their original weight. Rheological tests allowed to determine the yield stress which defines the state of morphological homogeneity of the preparation Measured hydrogen ion activity in the morphological structure of the preparation and on the surface after spreading are not compatible with the physiological level of but it indicates that an undissociated form of hyaluronic acid is found in the preparations. Conclusions. Preparations with hyaluronic acid lose in water and volatile components in the equilibrium system 50-74% of their weight. The measured activity of the hydrogen ion and the electrical conductivity in the morphological structure of the preparations indicate that the hyaluronic acidremains in the preparations in undissociated form withsignificantly reduced hydration capacity. The prescription composition of cosmetic preparations and their physicochemical properties indicate that they arehydrogel emulsions of the HIPRE-type and are characterized by high viscosity which promotes skin hydration and revitalization. Key words: hyaluronic acid, revitalizing creams, rheological yield stress, rate of water and volatile components loss |