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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2018, 21(1): 66-72pl  Formulation studies of a cosmetic with moisturizing properties - the effect of gelling component on gel cream rheological and texture parametersJustyna Kołodziejska 1/, Marta Mukoid 1/, Małgorzata Godlewska 2/, Aneta Berner-Strzelczyk 2/, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska 3/ 1/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 2/ Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Inappropriate skin hydration is a common cosmetic and dermatological problem. The process of the treatment of skin dryness carried out by a dermatologist can be effectively supported by the use of moisturizing cosmetics. Introduction of balanced mixtures of active substances into the cosmetic composition and development of a formulation of appropriate parameters are a decisive condition for its effective use. Aim. The aim of the study was to develop a gel cream formula with moisturizing properties resulting from the content of active substances of proven efficacy. The impact of different gelling components on the rheological and texture parameters of the produced formulations was evaluated. Materials and methods. There were prepared gel cream formulas containing the following moisturizing substances: dry extract from common flax, argan oil, glycerol, xylitol. The factor differentiating 9 developed formulas was the gelling component, i.e. acrylic acid polymers and xanthan gum. Rheological parameters were determined using a cone-plate digital rheometer. The hardness, spreadability, adhesion and cohesion of the gel creams were tested using a texture analyzer. Results. Formulations are non-Newtonian liquids, diluted with shear. The type of the used acrylic acid polymer affects the rheological and texture parameters of the formulation. The introduction of xanthan gum into the formula improves the application parameters of the gel creams. Thixotropic tests showed high stability of the formulas. The cohesion parameter close to 1 indicates the good consistency of the produced formulations. Conclusions. The most advantageous application parameters, such as: structural viscosity, yield stress, hardness and spreadability were demonstrated for the formulations with Carbopol 974P and xanthan gum which were used in a quantitative ratio of 0.6 to 0.4% of the composition. Key words: gel cream, moisturizing substances, extract from common flax (linseed extract), rheology, texture |