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Pol J Cosmetol 2018, 21(1): 58-65pl  Possibilities of application of novel surfactants, products of catalytic oxyethylenation of pork lard triglycerides in dermabrasion preparation vehiclesMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Katarzyna Zebzda 3/, Marcin Woskowicz 3/, Aneta Berner-Strzelczyk 3/, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska 4/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/ 1/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Introduction. The products of catalytic oxyethylation of the pork lard triglyceride fraction of the number of oxyethylene segments nTE=5, such as Curtoil, Frisol 37R, Frisol 50i, Friolehina FL12N are new nonionic surfactants synthesized in the Surface-Active Agents Plant "BLACHOWNIA" in Kędzierzyn-Koźle. Oxyethylates of tested physical properties show compatibility with human sebum and solubilization capacities in relation to lipophilic therapeutic agents (BSC group II, IV) and cholesterol. Aim. The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of new nonionic surfactants on the application parameters and the rate of salicylic acid mass exchange at the phase boundary. The assumption of preformulation studies was to determine the optimal composition of the cosmetic base for substances used in dermabrasion. Materials and method. Compositions of model cosmetic bases with white petrolatum, white beeswax, rapeseed oil and new surfactants: Curtoil, Frisol 37R, Frisol 50i and Friolehina FL12N were developed. The water number, the perspiration number, extensibility, kinetics of volatile components loss and rheological parameters of the prepared bases were tested. The rate of salicylic acid mass exchange at the phase boundary was estimated in vitro. Results. The highest values of the water number and the weakest loss of volatile components, regardless of the prescription composition, were found in bases with Curtoil. Low structural viscosity and high thixotropic stability were demonstrated in bases with white petrolatum and 4% content of this surfactant. The highest area under the diffusion curve of salicylic acid was obtained in the tested bases with Curtoil surfactant and white wax. Conclusions. The most favorable application parameters of model bases containing Curtoil surfactant influence the effective diffusion process of the substance applied in dermabrasion (salicylic acid). Key words: cosmetic bases, nonionic surfactants, pork lard, salicylic acid |