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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2017, 20(1): 54-62pl  Physicochemical and applicative properties of selected cosmetic formulations applied in chemical dermabrasiaMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska 4/, Monika Pakowska-Banasiak 5/ 1/ Niestacjonarne Studium Doktoranckie Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 5/ Katedra Kosmetologii Stosowanej, WSIW w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Regular exfoliation is a condition for maintaining not only beautiful, but also healthy and young skin. Chemical peeling is one of the most comprehensive aesthetic medicine treatments. It allows, through the dermatological process, the treatment of skin imperfections and anomalies, as well as regeneration and rehabilitation. Aim. The aim of the study was to undertake research on the application properties of selected preparations used for chemical peeling, containing acids and characterized by a different coefficient of bioavailability. Material and Methods. Material for the research comprised 5 selected market preparations for chemical peeling. The rate of release (diffusion) of acids from professional cosmetic preparations to model acceptor fluid (distilled water) was calculated. This technique was used in accordance with the requirements applicable in therapeutic systems. Rheological parameters were defined. The rate of volatile components loss as well as the rate of acids diffusion to the external compartment of selected preparations were determined. The kinetics of the mass exchange on the phase boundary from the formulations to the chemical peeling was determined. Results. Folic acid is the only compound acting epidermally, its bioavailability coefficient equals zero. During an effective peeling process (exfoliation) there occurs a natural process of volatile components loss, which increases the viscosity of the formulation, and hence, reduces the diffusion rate of the acid through the boundary phase. The determined water-binding capacity by the tested parameters is quantitatively significant, which in the conditions of the performed peeling leads to high dynamics of water extraction from the skin tissue, particularly at significant loss of volatile components. Conclusions. The most stable in the application are formulations of hydrogel structure of high practical viscosity, which are characterized by low rate of volatile components loss. Preparations for chemical peeling at high acid concentrations (10-40%) exhibit high osmolar concentration value. Key words: chemical peeling, hydroxy acids, market formulations for cosmetic procedure |