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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2016, 19(3): 239-244pl  Selected emollients as hand cream texture and rheology modifiersJustyna Kołodziejska 1/, Katarzyna Walkowiak 1/, Małgorzata Godlewska 2/, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska 3/ 1/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 2/ Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Introduction. The specific structure of hand skin results in high susceptibility to external factors. High demands are made on hand creams concerning not only the choice of active agents, but also the application parameters, such as viscosity for easy use of the product, light texture, appropriate hardness and spreadability. Features that in the case of cosmetic products are determined subjectively by means of the senses, can be estimated and compared by measuring the texture and rheology. Aim. The aim of the study was to assess the effect of selected emollients on sensory properties of hand creams produced according to own prescription. Material and methods. Basic prescription of a hand cream was worked out on the basis of Sedefos™75 (Gattefossé) emulsifier. Successively, the following emollients were introduced from the group of fats and plant waxes such as: Shea butter, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil and argan oil in the ratio 1:1, cocoa butter and Carnauba wax. The texture analysis was performed using Shimadzu Autograph (Shimadzu Corporation, Analytical&Measuring Instruments Division) texture analyzer. Rheological measurements were made with cone-plate rheometer DV-III version 3.0 (Brookfield). Results. The best spreadability was obtained after application of jojoba oil, which reduced the cream hardness and adhesion and was characterized by high cohesion. Jojoba oil, cocoa butter and vegetable oils (sweet almond and argan) caused the decrease in the viscosity of the cream basic prescription. Conclusions. The application of specific emollients allows to modify the texture and rheology parameters of model hand cream formulation produced on the basis of Sedefos ™ 75 emulsifier. Jojoba oil demonstrated the most beneficial impact on sensory parameters of the produced cream. Key words: hand cream, emollients, texture, rheology |