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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2016, 19(3): 190-198pl  Self-tanning and bronzing cosmetic ingredientsArtur Budzowski, Regina Gil Zakład Chemii Kosmetycznej, Krakowska Akademia im. A. Frycza Modrzewskiego w Krakowie Summary The article contains a survey on cosmetic raw materials offered as components of self-tanning and pigmentation enhancing cosmetics. Safety issues concerning those ingredients have been emphasized. Much attention has been paid to the most frequently applied self-tanners, which are dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and erythrulose. Despite a weak sun protective effect of those components, for certain time after topical application of the self-tanning cosmetics, an additional protection from UV radiation is necessary due to their photosensitizing influence. Safety of self-tanning cosmetics have been discussed, including the problem of insufficient information about the potential hazards and label warnings on produced in EU cosmetics. In the article cosmetic raw materials enhancing the DHA and erythrulose self-tanning action have been presented, which help to achieve a suntanned appearance at reduced concentration of those harmful compounds. Another group of cosmetic raw materials has been shown, which facilitate natural pigmentation by increasing the synthesis of melanin; most of them may also be applied to self-tanner formulations. Evidences of destructive influence of materials containing psoralenes which increase the skin´s sensitivity to light have been mentioned. Advantages of ingredients consisting of plant extracts and containing natural plant dyes, e.g. carotenoids, chinones and polyphenols have been presented. They may serve as self-tanners enhancing the synthesis of melanin, as well as natural bronzers, being an alternative for dangerous self-tanning ingredients. Key words: self-tanning agents, bronzers, skin pigmentation enhancers, safety management |