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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2015, 18(4): 291-295pl  Krameria (Krameria triandra) - new cosmetic raw materialMagdalena Sikora 1/, Małgorzata Redzynia 2/, Patrycja Fandrych 1/, Jacek Krzciuk 3/ 1/ Instytut Podstaw Chemii Żywności, Wydział Biotechnologii i Nauk o Żywności, Politechnika Łódzka 2/ Instytut Biochemii Technicznej, Wydział Biotechnologii i Nauk o Żywności, Politechnika Łódzka 3/ Naturex S.C. Produkcja ekstraktów ziołowych i owocowych, Katowice Summary Introduction. Krameria root (Rhatany) is characterized by a high content of biologically active substances including catechins, proanthocyanidins, tannins, neolignans. The aim of the study was to determine the chemical composition of the extract obtained from Krameria triandra root, and to assess the potential use of these components in cosmetic formulations. Material and methods. The rhatany extract used in the study came from the Naturex company in Katowice. In this raw material, the content of active ingredients, responsible for its activity, was established. The content of polyphenols in total, flavonoids and flavanol was evaluated by spectrophotometric methods. The amount of flavonols, hydroxycinnamic acids, hydoxybenzoic acids and flavanols was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Also antioxidant activity was defined both by FRAP method and by using ABTS and DPPH assays. Cosmetic preparations were made in the Laboratory of Cosmetic Raw Materials, Institute of General Food Chemistry, Biotechnology and Food Science Faculty, Technical University of Lodz. The components used to prepare the formulations were generally commercially available. Results. Extract of rhatany used in the preparation of cosmetic formulations contained 1038.08±8.31 mg/ 100 ml of polyphenolic compounds. Hydroxybenzoic acids and flavanols were predominated in polyphenolic compound group, determined by HPLC method. Antioxidant activity expressed as TEAC, designated by ABTS+ methods, DPPH and FRAP amounted to 82.41±6.82; 79.13±3.66 and 49.89±1.49 micromoles of Trolox/ml of the extract. Conclusion. Based on this study, it can be concluded that the extract of rhatany, has strong antioxidative properties which enable to effectively protect cosmetic products and also it provide good cosmetic results. Key words: extract of rhatany, polyphenols, cosmetics |