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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2015, 18(3): 184-190pl  Amino acids and protein hydrolysate in cosmeticsJulia Hałupka, Elżbieta Studzińska-Sroka, Wiesława Bylka Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytetu Medycznego im. Karola Marcinkowskiego w Poznaniu Summary Amino acids, proteins as well as products of partial or complete protein hydrolysis are used in skin, hair and nail care. The sources of protein substances are animal and plant organisms and algae. Amino acids such as alanine, asparagine, arginine, glycine, lysine, serine, glutamic acid and threonine may be ingredients of moisturising, nourishing, anti-wrinkle, anti-cellulite cosmetics and those restoring skin elasticity and firmness. Sulphur-containing amino acids, i.e. cystine, cysteine, methionine, play a particularly important role in hair and nail care. Proteins used in cosmetic preparation include collagen and elastin, improving skin elasticity, and keratin, the component of horny epidermal products. Water-soluble silk protein hydrolysates create a specific film with moisturising, nourishing, protecting and smoothing activity, and are used in preparations for skin, hair and nails. Milk proteins and their hydrolysates have hygroscopic, water-binding and film-forming properties. Plant protein hydrolysates, especially maize, soy, wheat, rice and oats proteins, show affinity to the skin, hair and nail surface, are responsible for film-forming, softening, smoothing and regenerating properties. They are also applied in hair care products due to their antistatic, nourishing and strengthening properties, improving smoothness and gloss of hair, and decreasing brittleness. The substances discussed do not usually display irritating activity and are safe for individuals suffering from allergies. Key words: amino acids, classification, protein, protein hydrolysates, cosmetics |