Evaluation of cosmetic properties of ethanolic extracts from Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis and Nigella sativa seedcakesAnna Ratz-Łyko 1/, Jacek Arct 1/, Katarzyna Pytkowska 1/, Sławomir Majewski 1,2/ 1/ Zakład Chemii Kosmetycznej, Wydział Kosmetologii, Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia w Warszawie 2/ Klinika Dermatologii i Wenerologii, Warszawski Uniwersytet Medyczny w Warszawie Summary Background. The seedcakes are a rich source of natural bioactive substances: antioxidants, protein and carbohydrates. Thus, may scavenging free radicals and affect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. Aim. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vivo properties of oil-in-water emulsions cream with the Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis and Nigella sativa seedcake ethanolic extracts. Material and Methods. Study was conducted over 6 weeks on a group of 15 volunteers after twice a day application of oil-in-water emulsions cream with the seedcake extracts on their forearms. The measurement of basic skin parameters (stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function) was performed once a week. Results. In in vivo tests the emulsions with Oenothera biennis and Nigella sativa seedcake extracts showed the best effect on the stratum corneum hydration state and epidermal barrier function. Conclusions. Comparative tests conducted by corneometer and tewameter showed that Oeonthera biennis, Borago officinalis and Nigella sativa have potential application in moisturizing, mitigating and protective cosmetics for normal, dry and mature skin. Key words: seedcake extracts, Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis, Nigella sativa, skin hydration, epidermal barrier function |