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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2014, 17(3): 225-230pl  Composition of anticellulite cosmetic with ivy extractJustyna Kołodziejska, Ewelina Mundzik, Małgorzata Godlewska, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Introduction. The ingredients of anticellulite cosmetics have antiedematous activity, accelerate the decomposition of fats and improve circulation. An extract of ivy (Hedera helix), rich in saponins and flavonoids, demonstrates multidirectional anticellulite activity. Hydrogels produced on the base of acrylic acid polymers (Carbomers) are a suitable vehicle for anticellulite cosmetics. They do not exert any effect on the active substance, are indifferent to humans, non-toxic, easy in applying to and removing from the skin and well tolerated by patients. Aim. The aim of the study was to work out a prescription for a hydrogel cosmetic of anticellulite activity the physicochemical properties of which will condition high pharmaceutical availability of active components of ivy extract. Material and methods. Four variant prescriptions of anticellulite hydrogels were prepared on the base of different Carbomers (Carbopol 974 NF, 980 NF, AA-1, Ultrez 10). The physicochemical properties of anticellulite cosmetics produced according to our own prescription were measured and comparatively those of a market cosmetic containing the same active substance (dry extract of ivy). Extensibility was tested with extensometric method, rheological parameters with the use of cone-plate digital rheometer and the kinetics of volatile components loss with gravimetric method. The rate of release of active substances was estimated with a membrane method using a spectrophotometer. Results. From among the hydrogels produced according to our own prescription the best physicochemical parameters (good extensibility, low value of structural viscosity with preservation of hysteresis loop of not large area and the lowest loss of mass in the process of kinetics of the volatile components loss) were obtained for the hydrogel with Carbopol AA1. However, compared to the commercial formulation, the hydrogel is characterized by worse extensibility and higher structural viscosity. Active substances of ivy extract diffuse more effectively from the vehicle on Carbopol AA1 base than from the vehicles with Carbopols: 974 NF, 980 NF, Ultrez 10. Conclusions. Carbopol AA1 is a good base for the hydrogel with ivy extract of anticellulite activity. Reduction of the gelling substance content in the prescription of the hydrogel may contribute to optimization of the vehicle physicochemical parameters and to the improvement of the efficiency of active substance release. Key words: anticellulite cosmetics, ivy extract, acrylic acid polymers, rheology, pharmaceutical availability |