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Pol J Cosmetol 2014, 17(3): 203-206pl  Bioresorption- and effectiveness-related aspects of transdermal and liposome hyaluronic acidKatarzyna Kaliś Śląska Wyższa Szkoła Medyczna w Katowicach Summary Hyaluronic acid has been widely used in aesthetic medicine due to its hypoallergenic properties, ability to bind water and active forms of oxygen and to facilitate penetration of nutritional ingredients of multi-ingredient products. It is one of the best moisturising and protective substances. Hyaluronic acid can be administered by subcutaneous injection, percutaneously in the form of liposomes or transdermally. The hyaluronic acid content in a cosmetic formula as well as its molecular mass determine the rate at which it penetrates the epidermis. Only the low molecular fractions of hyaluronic acid are able to penetrate the stratum corneum. The problem with this biopolymer is that its bioresorption is too fast, in particular if it is isolated from natural products. Biotechnological methods used to improve stability of hyaluronic acid in physiological conditions change its molecular weight. This is where another problem connected with supply of hyaluronic acid to the cornified layer of epidermis arises. The paper presents modern technologies which allow to increase penetration of hyaluronic acid and prolong the time of its bioresorption and thus increase hydration and elasticity of the skin and reinforce its protective barrier. Key words: biopolymer, bioresorption, moisturising properties, cosmetic product formulation, therapeutic system |