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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2012, 15(2): 106-114pl  Analysis of the product ingredients of oriental perfumes determined by technique GC/MSJoanna Borowiecka 1/, Wiktor Wesołowski 2,3/, Karolina Panek 1/ 1/ Zakład Środków Zapachowych Katedry Kosmetologii Oddziału Kosmetologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 2/ Zakład Toksykologii Katedry Toksykologii i Bromatologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Instytut Medycyny Pracy w Łodzi Summary Perfumes of the oriental line are recommended for use in winter and are described as a "perfume for fur". The mainly ingredients of the oriental composition are musk, amber, spices, incense, vanilia and sandalwood. Aim. The aim of this study was to determine qualitative composition of high-quality perfume Opium and its substitutes available on the market using GC/MS technique. Comparison of composition of product Opium with igredients of its substitutes and statement if ingredients from the list, which use is prohibited according to IFRA Guidelines, in cheaper substitutes are present. Materials and methods. GC/MS analysis was performed for the high-quality perfume Opium and its nine cheaper substitutes bought on the market. The principle of determination was based on a comparison of MS spectra recorded GC chromatographic peak with the highest value retention time (RT) sample with MS spectrum of the standard set out in the library spectra NIST5. Results. The results of the analysis (GC/MS) led to conclusion that there are the following compounds in all analysed samples: α-guaiene, α-patchoulene and patchoulol. Methyl dihydrojasmonate, present in seven analysed samples, introduce warm, floral, sensual scent of jasmine into the composition. Derivatives of unsaturated cycloaliphatic ketones, such as: isomethyl-α-ionone and isomethyl-β-ionone were found in four products. Ingredients give fresh, floral scent. Synthetic musks: Tonalid® (AHMT), musk ketone (MK), Musk T® (ethylene brasylate) and Musk 36A® and ambergris substitute Ambrox® give warm and strong scent for the oriental composition. In the evolution of scent they provide strong, penetrating lower scent note. Ingredients were not found only in high-quality perfume, Opium (1) and low-quality Eau de Toilette (3). The solvents of perfume composition: diethyl phtalate (DEP) was present in seven low-quality products, dipropylene glycol in nine and isopropyl myristate in only one Eau de Toilette. Conclusions. The analysis GC/MS of low-quality perfumes from oriental line, which were bought on the market led to conclusion that compounds and their concentration complies with IFRA Guidelines in all products. Key words: oriental line, Eau de Toilette, GC/MS |