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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2011, 14(2): 82-87en  Jasmine and their varieties in perfumeryAnna Pawełczyk, Lucjusz Zaprutko Department of Organic Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Faculty, Poznan University of Medical Sciences Summary The name jasmine refers to more than 200 shrub and vine species from the Oleaceae family. They are native to tropical areas of Asia, Africa and some selected species also grow in Europe. The scent of jasmine is very popular in perfumery in regard of its intensity, durability and warm, sweet floral note. Over 70-80% of world production of jasmine absolute comes from India and Egypt. Currently, extracts from flowers of Jasminum officinale var. grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac are mainly used in natural jasmine fragrances, while other species of Jasminum family are much more rarely met. These include Jasminum auriculatum, Jasminum flexile and Jasminum pubescens. The characteristic scent of jasmine extract is due to the presence of many different components. The commonly used extract of the flowers of Jasminum officinale contains over 250 substances that are mono-, di-, tri- and sesquiterpenes, alcohols, phenols, carbonyl compounds, acids, esters and lactones as well as various combinations of these chemical compounds. Most of these ingredients are fragrance components but there are also those that do not exhibit smell, however, all of them have a partial impact on the final fragrant properties of the relevant extract or absolute. In this paper the chemical compositions of 10 absolutes derived from 5 species of jasmine of different origin are compared (Jasminum sambac, Jasminum officinale var. grandiflorum, Jasminum auriculatum, Jasminum flexile and Jasminum pubescens). The comparative analysis of the chemical composition of various jasmine absolutes reveals their similarities and also significant differences, both qualitative and quantitative, which consequently affect olfactory impressions made by them. Key words: jasmine, scent, jasmine species, jasmine absolute, jasmine fragrant substances |