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Pol J Cosmetol 2011, 14(1): 47-56pl  Ingredients perfumery line floral-powdery and floral-fruit determined by technique GC/MSJoanna Borowiecka 1/, Wiktor Wesołowski 2,3/ 1/ Zakład Środków Zapachowych Katedry Kosmetologii Oddziału Kosmetologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 2/ Zakład Toksykologii, Katedra Toksykologii i Bromatologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Instytut Medycyny Pracy w Łodzi Summary Perfume of the floral lines are characterized by a diversity scent and are intended mainly for women. Major chord based on the scent of the flower. Is muffled notes: fruit, powder, oriental, fresh, aldehyde, chypre. The high cost of essential oils led to extensive use in perfumery of synthetic compounds with the scent of flowers. Aim. The aim of this study was to analyze qualitative and quantitative components by GC/MS high-quality products and their substitutes commonly available on the market. Analysis of the components was justified by the finding that high quality products and are available on the market contain ingredients at a concentration corresponding to the IFRA Guidelines. Materials and methods. The analysis of the family Eau de Toilette, with notes of floral-powdery (four) and notes of fruit (three), designed for women. The principle of determination was based on a comparison of MS spectra recorded GC chromatographic peak with the highest value retention time (RT) sample with MS spectrum of the standard set out in the library spectra NIST5. Results. The analysis led to the conclusion in all the samples the presence of the following compounds: Galaxolide® (HHCB), linalool, methyl-β-ionone, iso-methyl-β-ionone, Lilial®, iso-curcumenol, iso-eugenol acetate, Z-ocimenone oxide, β-caryophyllene. Synthetic media animal notes, giving the compounds of the composition of musk odor, such as: Egzaltolide® (7.14-11.53%), Ambretolide® (0.47-1.11%), Galaxolide® (0.24-15.56%), Musk T® (6.45-11.71%) and the smell of ambergris: Ambrox® (0.44-1.22%) were present in the analyzed samples. Acyclic, monoterpenes alcohols, such as: linalool and geraniol contend to the composition of sweet-floral fragrance with notes of rosey. Linalool was observed in all products at a concentration of 0.85-5.74%, and geraniol in only four at a lower concentration (0.72-1.46%). Ester derivative, geraniol and nerol acetate identified in articles with a hint of floral-fruity (0.07-0.70%) in contrast with compounds not found in samples from the line of floral-powdery. Methyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione®) opponent to the composition of floral-jasmine scent, warm and intense was in all articles (0.83-31.37%). Compounds containing a carbonyl osmophoric group: methyl-β-ionone, iso-methyl-β-ionone and Lilial® were present in all articles in concentration from 0.07 to 3.32%. Conclusions. Analysis of the floral-powdery lines and floral-fruit quality and their substitutes commonly available in the market led to the conclusion that the components and their concentration in all compositions is consistent with the IFRA Guidelines. Key words: Eau de Toilette, line flower, GC/MS |