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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2023, 26(3): 154-160pl  Cosmetic preparations used for effective hair care and washing. Part I. Bonifrater shampoosMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/, Kamil Zadrozny 5/, Br. Marcin OH Cegła 5/, Magdalena Piechota-Urbańska 4/, Magdalena Markowicz-Piasecka 4/ 1/ Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi (prof. senior) 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 5/ Apteka Ziołolecznicza Konwentu Bonifratrów w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Using proven prescriptions of the Order of the Brothers Hospitallers, original shampoos were introduced to the cosmetics market. The formula of the strengthening, normalizing and anti-hair loss shampoo includes original oriental plant extracts currently used in African, Indian and European traditional medicine. Aim. The fundamental goal of the research was to determine the basic physicochemical parameters in the shampoo application system, i.e. hydrogen ion activity, electrical conductivity, viscosity hydrodynamic parameters and the reduction of surface tension at phase boundary, which determine their physiological effectiveness and safety of use in hair and scalp care. Material and methods. Innovative prescription-based Bonifrater shampoos (strengthening, normalizing and anti-hair loss) recommended for effective hair and scalp care were the subject of the research. Viscosity, surface tension, electrical conductivity and hydrogen ion activity were determined using pharmacopeial methods. Results. The determined concentration of hydrogen ions and the numerical values of electrical conductivity and surface tension at the phase boundary (scalp - hair/shampoo solution) confirmed their physiological compatibility and safety of use. Hydrodynamic values calculated from shampoo viscosity measurements confirmed their morphological stability and lack of thixotropy during repeated use of plastic packaging (multi-dose preparations). The calculated diffusion coefficient indicates the endo- and diadermal effect of therapeutic agents, phytochemicals and amino acids (including biotin). Conclusions. The results of research on the prescription composition and physicochemical properties of the original and innovative Bonifrater shampoos confirmed their supporting effect in the process of cleansing the scalp of excess sebum (supporting the fight against dandruff) as well as in improving the condition of hair and preventing hair loss. Key words: bonifrater shampoos, therapeutic agents, amino acids, plant extracts, inulin, bioavailability, diffusion coefficient |