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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2022, 25(2): 117-121pl  Chromametric studies of preparations containing fruit acidsJacek Arct 1/, Karolina Leleń-Kamińska 2/, Natalia Krasuska 3/ 1/ Fundacja dr Seidla w Warszawie 2/ Henkel Polska sp. z o.o. 3/ Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia w Warszawie Summary Introduction. Preparations with α-hydroxy acids (AHA), due to their effectiveness and multidirectional action, are popular today not only among specialists: dermatologists, and cosmetologists, but also among ordinary consumers. Aim. The study aimed to assess the possibility of using chromametric analysis for the action of α-hydroxy acids (AHA) on the skin. The tests used a mixture of glycolic acid and citric acid at different pH values. Materials and methods. Emulsions with a pH of 2.1, 4.0, and 6.0 were applied to the skin tinted with the self-tanning agent. The measurement was taken 24 hours after applying the self-tanner and after 10, 60, and 120 minutes from the application of the emulsion. Measurements were made with the use of a chromameter. The influence of the action of the emulsion was calculated as a percentage of the control field. Results and conclusions. All emulsions caused changes to the L*, a*, and b* parameters, however for each pH the degree of change was different. Significant changes were observed in the b* parameter with little effect on pH. The results show that it is not possible to assess chromametrically the brightening effect of preparations with α-hydroxy acids during a single application and with a low content of these acids in the preparation. Key words: α-hydroxy acids, chromameter, skin lightening, effect of pH |