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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2022, 25(2): 108-112pl  Parabens bioavilability from emulsionsMagdalena Krulikowska 1/, Jacek Arct 2/, Agnieszka Miazga 3/ 1/ Action Poland Sp.z o.o. 2/ Fundacja dr Seidla w Warszawie 3/ Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia w Warszawie Summary Introduction. Parabens are one of the most popular and commonly used preservatives. The safety of their use in cosmetics largely depends on the ability to penetrate the skin. Transepidermal transport is a complicated process. The most important factors influencing the penetration of substances into the skin includes: the physicochemical form of the product and the possible presence of transepidermal transport promoters such as surface active agents. Aim. The aim of the study was to evaluate the permeation rate of several selected parabens through model membranes from cosmetic emulsions. Materials and methods. The rates of permeation of selected parabens through the lipid membrane and the porcine skin membrane were investigated. The experiments were carried out in Franz chambers, as the donor system were used specially prepared two basic types of emulsions - o/w and w/o, containing equal concentrations of parabens. Results and conclusions. A decrease in the permeability of parabens was observed along with an increase in their lipophilicity. The type of emulsion used had no influence on the described dependence. This tendency is clearly changed in relation to systems with low viscosity, where the permeation rate in the function of lipophilicity is parabolic. The obtained results are extremely important in terms of the possibility of controlling the bioavailability of active substances through the selection of the cosmetic form. The high correlation coefficient between the penetration coefficients through the porcine skin and the lipid membrane (above 0.99) for the o/w emulsion, and for the w/o emulsion) means that the lipid membranes model very well the transepidermal transport of active substances. Key words: parabens, permeation, in vitro, membranes, Franz chambers |