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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2021, 24(3): 187-193en  Pyroglutamic acid esters - lipophilicity and penetrationJacek Arct 1/, Ewa Starzyk 2/ 1/ Dr Seidel´s Foundation, Warsaw 2/ Polish Union of the Cosmetics Industry Summary Introduction. Pyroglutamic acid and its salts are mainly used as moisturizers. This is due to the low bioavailability of these compounds when applied externally. Aim. The lipophilicity and permeation rate of the pyroglutamic acid esters through the stratum corneum were investigated under model conditions. Materials and methods. Commercially available pyroglutamic acid and its alkyl esters synthesized in laboratory conditions were used. Mathematical and experimental methods determined the lipophilicity. The permeation rate through the previously described model membranes was investigated experimentally. The mathematical equations were created based on the diffusion results. Results. The relationship between experimental and theoretical lipophilicity was determined. It was found that lipophilization increased the permeation rate of pyroglutamic acid derivatives through the model membrane. The dependence of the permeation rate on lipophilicity has a parabolic or bilinear character. Mathematical equations were determined for both relationships Conclusions. The obtained results indicate the desirability of lipophilization and thus increasing the bioavailability of pyroglutamic acid. Thanks to this, it will probably be possible to expand the range of applications of this cosmetic raw material. Key words: pyroglutamic acid, lipophilicity, dermal bioavailability, permeation profile, mathematical methods |